About

Owen Cox

Owen Cox

For many years Owen worked for a major charter company as dinghy instructor, yacht skipper, yacht engineer and cruising base engineer. During this time he accumulated a vast amount of experience in yacht systems, working in UK, Spain, France, Greece and Turkey. He then set up his own successful refrigeration and air conditioning company, designing, installing and maintaining this equipment in a range of vessels from cruisers to superyachts.

Throughout this time he has been an enthusiastic sailor of his own yachts, enjoying racing and cruising on a wide variety of craft.

In 2007 he returned to UK, based in the Southampton area, where he sailed a quarter-tonner, an Eygthene 24 named Mis Fitt, until exchanging her for a steel yacht, Arania. That boat has now been sold because Owen’s demanding workload prevents him from regular cruising. He currently races a single-handed A-class catamaran or a crewed Hurricane catamaran at Bala Sailing Club. In 2016 he was the Unicorn catamaran  National Champion.

Owen is now the UK importer of Planar heaters, selling and installing them in motorhomes and yachts. https://www.planarheaters.co.uk/

Vyv Cox

Vyv Cox is a Chartered Engineer, holding qualifications in both metallurgy and mechanical engineering. He worked for 30 years in the petroleum industry, successively in Research, North Sea platform specialist engineering and Rotating Equipment Engineering. In all of these positions his primary responsibility was for the diagnosis of engineering failures. He is now retired from full-time employment but continues to lecture on training courses and is a consultant in a range of engineering fields

He has sailed for most of his life, in dinghies, small catamarans and, for the past 20 years plus, on cruising yachts. When based in Anglesey, he cruised with wife Jill extensively between Tobermory, south west Ireland, Brittany and Devon. Relocating to Holland they cruised most regions from the Baltic to Biscay in their Sadler 34, Straitshooter. They are now meandering eastwards across the Mediterranean and have currently reached Greece.

In UK he owns a 1972 Colvic Northerner that is used mainly for  for winter cruising.

Vyv contributes technical articles to many magazines and is an active poster on many yachting forums. His book, Metals in Boats, ISBN 9781785002625, offers information on the manufacture and deterioration modes of the full range of metals used in boat building.

Customer testimonials

Special thanks must go to Owen Cox who answered my friend’s questions (& there were a few!) so comprehensibly. A diamond man .
Tradewinds, on ybw.com forum

Many thanks indeed for your prompt reply. That is extremely useful and helpful. I tried the manufacturers who make great claim about responding to queries but got nothing back and I was beginning to become concerned. M.M.

Many thanks-the coupling is clearly shown on your site under Bukh. I think this is the best way of accessing the seal assuming I can get the 4 bolts undone!! E.A

Thanks for your email and for taking the time to get back to me. M.P.

Many thanks for your advice. M.W.

I wanted to thank you for providing this very helpful service. I am one of no doubt many trying to source the Crosby 8mm C link and await with great interest the results of your enquiries. J.D.

2 comments

  1. Hi, I’m trying to separate my prop shaft from my coupling on a Yanmar 1GM10 and I’ve read on your pages here that Yanmar couplings don’t have a grub screw or any other kind of fixing other than the four pinch bolts. This seems to be the case on my boat as there’s nothing visible. I’m trying not to use hammers but the shaft won’t pull out, I’ve tried levering the split coupling apart but it’s very substantial and I don’t want to force it. I might try heating the coupling next but it’s pretty close to the bottom of the boat (GRP) and to the engine bearers (oak), Is there a trick to doing this? Thanks. Pete Mellersh

    P. S. Very good website, great source of information.

    1. Sorry for the delay, been away at the boatyard. You have probably done it by now but I would use a wedge to force the two flanges apart. A cold chisel works well.

      Vyv

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