The P-bracket was now quite loose, although it required a knock or two to drive it from the hull. The appearance of the hull was then like this, with the countersunk holes that attached the angles.
The P-bracket was now offered up to the hull and the two angles were bolted up, getting them good and tight. I checked that the shaft alignment was good with the angles in position, measuring the gap between shaft and stern tube all around. At this stage if the brackets were not exactly right I would have made good with thickened epoxy, or epoxy and glass if necessary. It is very easy to achieve good alignment like this and I was able to cure a long-term problem. Once happy that the P-bracket positioning was good, I bolted the angles to the hull and checked again that alignment was good and that the P-bracketwas stiff, without any play. Good engineering practice dictates that the strength and rigidity of the bracket should be at its maximum at this stage, adding epoxy is a ‘bonus’ and should not be relied upon to fix any defects such as a small amount of play.
Now the angles were unbolted from the hull again and rebedded using thickened epoxy. I bedded the angles onto the hull and re-tightened the bolts, again checking that everything was stiff, using plenty of epoxy paste to ensure it was extruded downwards to fill the space between the bracket and hull. It helped to wrap masking tape around the P-bracket against the hull, forming a dam to prevent the epoxy from running out. Once this had hardened, I filled any remaining gaps between the P-bracket and hull with epoxy paste.
I then laid up glass and epoxy inside the boat, covering the angles and the bracket. Finally I finished with a layer of epoxy mixed with filler as a flowcoat. My pics show the finished job ready for antifouling.
It took me about two days to do all this, working on my own in a yard without workshop facilities.
Several other Sadler owners have now carried out this job. This photo, from David Pocock, shows the angles set on filled epoxy resin. The P-bracket offset dictates that the heights of the two angles differ. Filled epoxy allows this quite simply, the holes being cleaned up once the resin has set.
Another one done by Mike Jenner. Mike has retained the anode connection to the top of the P-bracket and made a very tidy job of the filled epoxy that covers the whole thing.
I posted a version of this on ybw.com in 2008. Oldsaltoz, a regular contributor on yacht repair matters, subsequently posted the following:
Just a couple of notes to add:
After removal make sure all areas are clean and dry including the bolt holes. Give the area good sanding with a 40 grit paper, wipe clean with acetone.
To get a good alignment and avoid resin running out, use micro-fibres mixed with epoxy resin, about peanut butter consistency, then put your bolts in and get the alignment perfect, clean up any material around the bracket exit because this stuff is hard work to sand after curing, but is very strong. Leave it overnight to cure and nip up the nuts after it has cured.
Use only epoxy resin and cloth designed for use with epoxy, a 450 gram bi-directional or crows foot would be ok.
Apply at least 4 layers each overlapping the last by 50 mm minimum all round, a layer of 250 gram rovings cloth will smooth out the finish and ensure any exposed fibres are covered.
Epoxy will suffer from exposure to UV light, so give it a light sanding and coat with a bilge paint or other.
Any filling or fairing below the waterline should be done with epoxy resin and ‘closed cell’ balloons, spheres or Q-cells. after curing add 4 to 5 coats of epoxy wet on tacky to avoid sanding between coats.